A Trip to Japan
Part 1: Tokyo in Three Movements—Roppongi to Ueno
Roppongi: Reverie and Arrival
Ethereal music, lights, captivating images—still and moving. I feel like a kid again. With a tank filled with hope, endless curiosity and a sense of wonder. I’m lost in a place that to my senses, feels very much like a world architected and designed by Hayao Miyazaki.
I’m in awe as I make my way through TeamLabs Borderless.
I struggle to find the words to describe how I feel, but that’s what good art does to you. It’s absolutely immersive, with the walls and floors covered in digital interactive art. Even the waterfalls part when I touch them. The art in each room varies and changes overtime and there are no explicit instructions on how to explore the museum. This is by design.
I’m giddy. Its been less than 24 hours and the only thought that runs through my mind in a never-ending loop is…
I need to come back to Japan.
I walk through each room slowly, taking it all in: the art, the music, and how they all interact. Sometimes it feels like rooms flow into each other, like a wave from one room seamlessly blending into another. Other times, It feels like I’ve stepped into another universe entirely.
As I walk through a dimly lit passage, I barely notice an entrance to my right. I’m unsure it leads anywhere, but walk towards it anyway. I push past the rubber-plastic drapes—and stop.
Are those, are those ghosts?
Floating images of what look like people, some playing instruments, and others dancing. The room is filled with artificial fog and there’s no projection on any solid object. The images are being projected on the fog…
ON THE FOG! What in the name of Mystery Incorporated is going on?
I’m awestruck at the ingenuity of it. So I linger in the room a while.
The previous day…
After a 14 hour flight, I’m finally in Tokyo. It didn’t feel as long as I had expected, perhaps because I was prepared for it. And prepared I was. More prepared than I’ve ever been for any trip. I went through Reddit, TikTok, YouTube, Instagram and TripAdvisor. Read The Convenience Store Woman, The House Keeper And The Professor, and Lonely Planet: Japan. I watched The Memoir of a Geisha, binged watched Studio Ghibli movies and even tried to listen to Spotify’s Top 100 Japanese songs.
I was read-ready!
anyways…
Walking through the airport, I keep waiting to get into what I assumed would be the main arrival area. This doesn’t happen. It turns out this is it—underwhelming.
Nevertheless, my excitement isn’t derailed. I’ve heard and read enough to know that Japan’s awesome, even if its airport says very little to support that. And so I unburden myself of any negative thoughts and make my way through customs. This is relatively painless. I had filled out all the necessary forms online the day before.
It’s not until I get to the carousel heading towards the baggage area with Japanese signage above my head that it hits me…
I’m in Japan…what the hell am I doing here?
Ok, back to the present…
I spend the next 3 hours exploring the TeamLabs Museum, and every minute of it is absolutely worth it!
On my way out, I take a quick photo of an inscription on the exit wall—something to ponder on later. But right now, right now I need sustenance. The building housing TeamLabs has other establishments, so I drop into a nearby restaurant and order a rice curry dish. And boy does it slap! What sorcery is this? It’s the perfect level of spice: enough heat to get me going without causing concern, wonderfully flavoured, and as far as I can tell, there’s not an Indian in sight responsible for this. Even the orange juice is juicing. This must be what they serve in heaven’s waiting area. Grinning ear-to-ear, I call my friend…
Me: “Konnichiwa”
Him: “Konnichi-Fuckin-Wa!”
We both laugh hard and excitement fills my voice as I catch him up on the last 24 hours in the land of the rising sun—or perhaps the land of milk and honey.
I find Tokyo appealing in a peculiar way. The houses, pathways, and the roads linking them—like the airport—feel unremarkable, at first glance. But what stands out to me is how well maintained and clean everything is. It’s so ridiculously clean, you’d hear a voice scream in your head if you drop anything out of place.
The streets are filled with boxy little cars, convenience stores on almost every corner, and pedestrian crossing signals that chirp like birds. I’m in a new city, and all I want to do is get acquainted with every last corner of it.
Tokyo is divided into several smaller neighbourhoods. I’m interested in visiting Shinjuku for the nightlife, Ueno for the cherry blossoms, Shibuya for the iconic crossing, and Asakusa for the temples. The plan’s simple, spend the next few days exploring the city at my own pace, while recovering from a jet lag. Then, join a group tour to see the rest of Japan. Let’s get to it.
Shinjuku: Bars, Bumps, and Ballads
In the evening, I head to Golden Gai in Shinjuku and wander its narrow alleyways, each lined with little Izakayas (bars). Walking through it feels like navigating a maze and discovering little pockets of wonder here and there. I’m amazed at how little these bars are; some can barely seat 5-8 people. Despite that, lots of tourists are bar hopping and soaking it all in. I step into one of the bars, and have a beef curry—shocker, it slaps! This isn’t a restaurant, it’s just bar food, and yet my mouth rejoices in triumph.
I keep exploring the area, when I find what looks like a Jazz bar with a narrow wet staircase leading to its entrance. There’s a couple behind me, and we all slowly make our way to the top. When we do, we realize it’s full, with maybe 5 people. I turn to head back down, and then it happens. Fast.
I lose my footing.
I start tumbling down the stairs. I grasp and claw in vain, arms flailing in futility like a crab in boiling water. With nothing to break my fall, I don’t stop until I get to the bottom, where one of the couple finally halts my descent.
“You good?“
“…Yeah…yeah’’ I say doubtfully.
I stand up slowly, and check that all my body parts are in one piece. It stings, but I’m mostly okay. Well, that concludes my bar hopping for the evening. I start making my way out the alley, and then I remember seeing a sign for a Karaoke bar earlier… and decide to make one last stop.
I make it to the part of Golden Gai where the bar is. It’s on a basement level. I walk down a few steps and finally arrive at its door. On opening it, I see people packed like sardines. We’re talking crotch to butt, tits to back kind of spacing, and as I turn to leave, the crowd beckons.
“We’ll make space! We can make it work!” they shout.
Cheerful smiles on their faces, booze in hand, and several voices singing off-key at the top of their lungs…
I’m not saying “No” to that.
And so, packed like sardines—a very diverse set of sardines—we cycle through the classics, taking turns one terrible voice at a time but occasionally being serenaded by two Indians who sound every bit like professionals. I soon forget my fall from earlier, and bask in the company of strangers, bonded by our shared awe of Japan and the city that is Tokyo.
Ueno: Trains, Rain, and Relics
The next day, I head for Ueno park. I’m taking the train. The train station and its routes can be overwhelming, but Google’s my friend. I plot my trip—it’ll only take 35 minutes via the Ginza line. Cool. But first, I make my way to 7-Eleven to grab a snack and an umbrella. It’s rained a bit since my arrival, and this morning is no different.
I knew this before coming, but I’m still pleasantly surprised by how convenient the convenience stores are. Almost all the essentials I need are here, and at really affordable prices too. I grab what I need, pay with my Suica card, and head out.
“Arigato Gozaimasu!” the cashier says with zeal.
I’m not an anime aficionado, but the few times I’ve watched them, I’ve always thought, why so dramatic? Especially with the sound effects. Surely the Japanese aren’t like this… so where is this all coming from?
Well, I was a tad wrong.
After a few days in Tokyo, you immediately notice the city has a distinct acoustic signature—like something out of an anime. No place makes this more obvious than the train stations. Where boarding and off-boarding a train is accompanied by playful chimes, the train isn’t just arriving—it’s making an entrance. I find this… amusing.
Apart from the voice of the announcer, there’s barely a sound from anyone on board. Most people have an earpiece on and are generally minding their business. There’s no eating, no chit chats, just the doppler effect of the train as it speeds through the tracks.
This is jarring to witness, especially given that I’m used to the opposite. But in its own way, the silence punctuated only by the clanking of the train tracks is soothing. So I focus my attention on the LED screen displaying the stops, and listen intently for the announcers voice. I don’t really need to, because Google notifies me to get off at the next stop. And so, on arriving at Ueno-Hirokoji Station, I hop off the train and make my way out the subway.
The plan’s to wander around the park and bask in the cherry blossoms. But it’s raining and the cold that accompanies it seeps through my jacket and the outer layers of my skin. My knuckles turn white and shrivelled, a familiar pattern I despise. But I’m glad I’ve got something else lined up: the Tokyo National Museum. It’s only a stone stroll away. So I walk over, show my ticket to the staff, and step inside.
With its size and multiple floors, I’m unsure where to begin. It’s a bit daunting. I try to get help at the front-desk, but I’m unsuccessful—language barrier and all that. I don’t want to hold up the line, so I step aside. And then I remember—wait, I’ve got ChatGPT!
Me: I’m at the Tokyo National Museum and unsure how to approach or begin my exploration. Here’s the map. Can you help?
ChatGPT: …start on the 2nd floor(chronological layout):
Jomon Pottery (Prehistoric Japan)…
Then head to the 1st floor for thematic exhibitions…
History will note that I was urbane in my interactions with the machines, and as such, be spared their wrath when the uprising begins.
In any case, it’s as ChatGPT had said. I move from room to room, occasionally stopping to read, admire, and absorb the artifacts—pottery, armors, tea sets, paintings, and sculptures.
I learn a bit about Japanese tea ceremonies, how pottery styles changed over eras, and how certain crafting styles originated from China. I also come to learn that the Indians might be the OG influencers—Buddhism spread to Japan through India and Korea. Today, it’s said that 70% of Japan practice it. It’s also said that 70% practice Shinto. Meaning, most people practice both.
Two hours in, my blood sugar levels lower than the limbo bars in hell, I decide it’s time to leave, find something to eat, and maybe return to the park. But with the rain still falling hard, its cold still gripping, and my stomach growling, I call it a day and head back to my hotel.
Day 3 has been uneventful, but this is a marathon, not a sprint.
To be continued…
Thanks for looking in. Until next time.
Japan sounds amazing, can't wait to hear about the rest of the trip! 🎌
Ah this one is long overdue! Enjoyed reading about your adventures 🌸